yerevan sun

Aaaaaaah, yes. There it is, a blazing sun slapping my shoulders. I’m in central Armenia for sure. After sweatering up in cool Goris, the capital brought on some heat exhaustion and a massive headache which wiped me right out for a few hours. But after a cold shower and some gellato, CURED! I was then able to enjoy dusk by the cascade with the my best fulbright scholar (and otherwise) friends, Claire and Imogen, guzzling some sweet Laimon Fresh (a Claire and Brent discovery). Imogen had seized a couple donuts off a pile at the US Embassy’s Independence Day party, and after removing them…

summer to spring

I thought returning in May I’d be back in Armenia for the summer.  That assumption held true in the capital, where the lowland climate heats up much more quickly than up north.  Upon my return, while waiting to see the doctors, I spent an entire day sitting in a park around a man-made pond near Yerevan’s opera house.  The slopes of grass between the pond and the surrounding cafes is home to three or four trees.  I sat in the shade of one and devoured a few hundred pages of Irving’s The World According to Garp, moving a few times…

opera swoll’

So it turns out Plácido Domingo is a big deal. I had such a great time with Sima Cunningham at Calumet that I started looking back over the month, and I realized that the past month or so has been a feast of Yerevan musical offerings. At our All Volunteer Conference a few weeks ago, I was sitting next to a friend of mine, Kath, who was interupted mid-knit by another volunteer with ticket news.  They’d be buying all the seats that afternoon.  My ears tend to prick up any time I feel like I might be missing something.  I…

a night in yerevan with miss cunningham

The other day I was in Yerevan and met some friends at the city’s bohemian bar, Calumet (“It’s cal-oo-may!” I was told.  Excuse me).  The floor near the stage was covered in foot high wooden tables and multi-colored bean bag chairs flat and dusty from heavy butt traffic.  I found my way onto half a bean bag, pulled my legs up to my chest to keep them out of a stranger’s lap, and listened to Sima Cunningham blast. She fits the big-voice-in-a-little-body cliché, but that big voice is so much full of soul I almost cried while she was singing…

i been around

A couple of posts ago I wrote about a time here in Armenia when I didn’t even have a flashlight-wielding friend to stare down into my sickly gullet. Times have changed.  I have said a good number of times how wonderful are the Armenian compadres that surround me, my nkerutsyun, my akhberutsyun, my harevanutsyun. However, the last couple of weeks have cemented some expat friendships of mine through the All Volunteer Conference in the capital and multiple visits to Casa Fulbright and multiple visits from My Favorite Europeans (ere known as The Europeans much to their amusement). So, I haven’t…