In Between Rwanda and Congo

  Along the southern point of Lake Kivu you can pass between Rwanda and Congo. A tiny prop plane will take you from Kigali right to the edge of the country. The flight takes thirty minutes, and they offer a quick snack of Coke and groundnuts while you watch the propeller spin outside. Fifteen minutes of smooth winding road curves around the edges of hills from which you can watch the fishing boats in the small bay. These roads eventually move down to the water’s edge and let you out at a busy little border crossing. There are loose papers…