a night in yerevan with miss cunningham

The other day I was in Yerevan and met some friends at the city’s bohemian bar, Calumet (“It’s cal-oo-may!” I was told.  Excuse me).  The floor near the stage was covered in foot high wooden tables and multi-colored bean bag chairs flat and dusty from heavy butt traffic.  I found my way onto half a bean bag, pulled my legs up to my chest to keep them out of a stranger’s lap, and listened to Sima Cunningham blast. She fits the big-voice-in-a-little-body cliché, but that big voice is so much full of soul I almost cried while she was singing…